Sunday, 7 February 2016

Cape to Cape




We had left the hot humid life in Malawi without any thoughts of what to expect. Travelling Cape Maclear, Malawi, to Cape Town , South Africa opened our eyes...
To mountains: we walked circling around the stunning sites

The peak of lions head

Climbing table mountain
To money: we observed the fast life where there were incentives to move things forward

Sea point
 To coasts: we walked the picturesque lanscapes full of unique species and wildlife 

The drive along chapmans peak
To museums: we documented the creative arts, wildlife and fascinating science of the world

Aquarium
These were all based around beautiful company gardens which was just 1 part of the city centre in which we explored. We were really lucky to balance both tourism and the city as a place to live and work having met up with Winston’s fellow friends and family.Many Malawians go to South Africa because of the deprived economy in Malawi. We met some really great people who loved to look after us and show us different places (after all they were Malawian!)
I cannot forget Jill Ingram either based in Cape Town who had swept us under her wing once again after I had met her 5 years ago with cyclist Steve (who is still cycling the world, just finishing…www.cyclingthe6.com). Once again as kind, energetic and full of information as ever she picked Winston and I up for a fun day out then we met her family. 

Sightseeing in Kistenbosch Gardens
 

Backpacking and meeting such a variety of different people took us to contrasting neighbourhoods. I even met a Kalahari 2nd generation bushman who had made a name for himself by complaining to the press about how the government had once again moved him and his family to another township settlement. He had a tremendous low cost built house designed and built with the inspirational earth architect Stephen Lamb.

Xoma, the owner of the Light House, Hout Bay




Having researched in Malawi, I went to Cape Town to meet and expand my sustainable architectural and construction knowledge.  I forced meetings with Vernon, from Collis & Associates and Andy Horn. Both inspirational with different specialities I absorbed the information knowing it would develop my work back in Malawi.

The most adventurous experience of all was the abseiling off Table Mountain that Chizzy (Winston’s brother) made a complementary activity as this was his work.





This was the best view after I walked off the side of the 1000m above sea level mountain backwards and twirled around after the 112m drop that displayed every cloud and coastline.
Not to forget the horseriding:

Horseriding at Pinelands Eco Village
Winston and I saw many contrasts and relaxed for our holiday but also kept busy walking, talking and learning about the faster pace of life with so many benefits and problems because of development.

After all of our fun and excitement it was definitely time to go home and meet our well known communities of friends. Definitely the warm heart 100 times more relaxed and friendly here with no obvious crime.
 
I always looked forward to my work: exciting building projects and my beautiful home now green as the rains had cleared all the spells of dust away. The land had grown, risen with tall maize rather than buildings. Maybe this is just the way it should be?

My short cut / path to my house, Lilongwe



Saturday, 9 January 2016

Christmas in Malawi is a celebration of the rains


Rains at the Njewa site, Lilongwe

Before the rains: I wilted in my Landirani Trust office, feeling like the dried sunburnt leaves in my garden after an extremely hot day. The fans would be on but I thought of my architecture tutor clearly explaining that hot air being circulated around a space does not change the temperature of the space. We were so close to ending the construction of the new Landirani office earth building. It was going to be the last hot season in this brick building, this was a joyful thought. We would be better off living in a house directed so the breeze naturally flows through the spaces to naturally cool everyone down without using electricity. I couldn’t wait for the breathing building of natural materials and an open plan design in a new side of town. 
Landirani Trust rammed earth office, Njewa, Lilongwe

As the rains came closer I saw everyone in the landscapes preparing the lands for the planting and farming for the next few months. Maize is definitely the main crop due to it being the staple diet but I had been influenced by many permaculture experts to plant a variety of seeds. I dug a 1m garden out of my gravel backyard and then raised some gravel bits with fertile soil from our natural forest at the corner of the large compound. These were both areas close enough to manage the crops for rain and weeds etc. but people explained the permaculture is the efficiency of planting wisely so I hoping the crops could look after themselves as I chose a variation of nutrient feeders, natural protectors and climbers to balance each other out. 

Good example of permaculture: Landirani Trust, Sams Village Gardens
The power of the heat was incredible it sloeds everything down and then as soon as the cool breeze defeated its way through the thick heated air there was a sigh of relief. The coolness brought the rhythm back as people had their set activities triggered as the rains arrived. The crops needed planting, the rock solid soils were now more flexible and needed churning for seeds and life from what was the dusty dry grounds. These trampled dry soils had been swept and degraded down for the last 9 months since the last drop of rains. Then, the rooves needed fixing: plastics had all now risen in price due to the high demand to once again stop the water from entering the house. This was a yearly activity and if the budget of the household could not afford good quality plastic or if people did not secure it down properly and fix it with grasses or any available materials there would be leaks.

New roof on guards house: Landirani Trust, Sam's Village
 The birds woke up first and told everyone about the sun that rose from pink to orange, then quietened down for the awakening of the people. The dogs could squabble away especially in the evenings but the frogs were taking over after down pours of magical rain. The dogs were making a song, competing over the frogs that had more beat yet such similar tones. All signs of life came out and played in the fresh waters.
Everything on site was moving faster now the rains were here people understood the need. 

Although in Cape Maclear there were still no rains! This was devastating for the people who depended on a good harvest. Malawi has incredible local rains. You could watch a cloud falling to the ground in the horizon. I must recall the landscapes and rolling hills as I retreated from north or south Malawi. Here everything was open and spread out compared to the closed fenced in roads in the UK.

Road from Lilongwe through Dedza
The lake was always going to be a regular visit as the boyfriend lived there. I am now comfortable and relaxed after getting used to his very young family where there are many kids.


This is compared to my sisters in the UK who are of ages 27 -31

 3 sisters
Look closer: my 3 sisters are somewhere in this image but this image clearly highlights the age range.
I still haven’t quite managed to save up enough money to buy a car because of my different priorities as I really enjoy travelling around town by bicycle. My mind immediately changes as I use the public transport from Lilongwe to Cape Maclear.  The slightly skewed priority becomes urgent as I wait to fill this truck full of people. This was a picture towards the middle of the time when it became a full truck. I got squashed but it is all part of the fun and experience as you meet different people all the time and now my local Chichewa language is coming along things are a lot more exciting. I reply like I understand for most conversations! 

A fully loaded pick up truck
I had a lovely few weeks balancing work and play with my first friend Jess who arrived from UK, for a total of 1 month stay. Ofcourse we had to get on the bikes: it was the only way to see a country! 

A day of cycling from Lilongwe to the village and back again

We also managed to take a trip to the closer strip of Lake from Lilongwe, a place called Senga Bay. It might sound strange but talk of UK politics and debating other international topics was so refreshing as my mind had been lost in the red earth pavements, sunken into the daily routine and Malawi talk and news.


Salima

As I spoke indepthly about all activities here in Malawi I once again clarified my happiness here and purpose in the environmental approach to encouraging quality earth building techniques in Malawi. I can be a proud Malawian as my time here has now stepped over the 2 year mark. People were very impressed with the Sam’s Village site and the work going up.  Our Landirani Trust team have persevered another year to be near to the opening ceremony of the self sufficient training village.

New reception build

This 2 year mark was when I said I would leave but there is so much to do here that a have not even touched on. My inspirations are still running along after understanding the people and the culture much better.
Site managers house: 2011 and kitchen extension: 2015

Visitors accommodation: 2013

Workshop and water tower: 2014
And then it was Christmas.. back to Cape Maclear
Due to the lack of prioritized internet time I am including a few words about Christmas so I am up to date before my next travels. Christmas for me has been balancing my Chichewa and much more local activities with the tourist world of Cape Maclear. My home (for 3 weeks break) was chaotic (much like being in the UK for Christmas) where it was hard to find a minute to myself. I loved the routine of setting the tea and bread out every morning for breakfast then getting the kids excited for our morning swim and wash in the lake just 5 minutes walk away. The kids often started as a group of 3, then joined together until there were around 8 getting home and getting the bags packed for the walk to the tourist side of town, this was often very refreshing. It was often quiet(er) although this often depended on the company and festive season feel of the day. Depending on the situation I went back and forth enjoying each place for being so different.

The courtyard of traditional Cape Maclear house
My friends all partying at Malambe

Christmas here came with the arrival of heavy rains (much later than other places in Malawi). This was the time where people could truly celebrate knowing they can plant and once again (just once a year) grow and harvest the staple food, maize. These months are known as the hunger months as people spent all their money on fertilizer and seeds and worked solidly knowing this would be their years supply.

Localised rain over the other side of Lake Malawi
 Christmas for the people of the village was a large meal in the middle of the day with a fanta. For some tourists and wealthier people it was enjoying the Lake Malawi for relaxation and non-work purposes. 
Tourist hotspot

I can say it is like any Christmas in Malawi with a few exceptions…
·         there are always a few drunken lost souls who have not been sober since I arrived 2 weeks ago,
·         many people joyful will just walk singing repetitive phrases of Malawian pop songs 
·         any activity has focused on food, drink, cleaning or washing
·         my first malawi family Christmas (this is the exception)
 
Another exception... cheaper, more efficient way to sail, sailing boat: the best invention seen yet on Lake Malawi

Tree trunk canoe with a maize bag sail
Winston and I are starting our New Year with a big adventure. We’re off from Cape Maclear to Cape Town, South Africa for culture, fresh air, a holiday and eco architectural inspiration. The blogs will continue as I wish everyone a content and happy new year full of achievements and adventures.

Happy New Year Everyone

Wednesday, 14 October 2015

It’s a love and hate relationship – Malawi


I love Malawi for the opportunity of mixing with natural sustainably minded people, rather than a choice it is a way of life.





I love Malawi as I can collect energy off other people. All people were cycling with me on the busy roundabout. There were no cars on this roundabout, but many bikes just a distance from town. It was the end of the month so there was less money floating around.


I hate Malawi for the short notice I get before having 3 days without water from the mains. With the taps dry I conserved most water for tea, cooking and used small amounts to wash after exercise or decided to stop the morning jog altogether!


I love Malawi for its spontaneity, one person cancelled one big trip, I immediately make a plan for another weekend away as I had the feeling and had prepared myself from being away from the big city / small village they call Lilongwe. 

I hate Lilongwe for the regular night out events. They often become routine as there are very few places to go. This does mean that if anyone organised anything everyone joined as the community would talk.

I love Lilongwe how I can hibernate, and do nothing for the whole week if I want to. I often get my head down and work, concentrate on life, the future, read, play guitar and try and grow things in the garden. 


I love Malawi as I feel my work can make a real impact on people's lives


I hate Lilongwe to not be able to walk or cycle in the evenings as there is an official rule not to be on the streets after 9pm.  The quiet nights on the streets all backed onto tall fences go hand in hand with danger.



I love Malawi to have my own place and be able to create my own space experimenting with local materials. 

I love Lilongwe for my very pregnant friend still wanting to jog around the block for a chat, despite her being very aware everyone was staring at her which made her feel embarrassed. 


I hate Malawi for the staple diet of food: vegetables, protein soya and rice or nsima. This is a variation that has minimal change. Spices make the food more exciting!



I love Malawi for the strong bright light of the sun that gives shadows the most amazing spaces for everyone to collect.

I hate the village to be the centre of attention and the talk of the town whatever activity I did.



I love the village for the peace and quiet and deep thoughts that surround me, as the place where I first started.

As I iron my t-shirt with the steam of my kettle, I think how simple and how beautiful life is. I am blessed. Thanks Malawi.

Thursday, 3 September 2015

2 weeks triumph, mums arrival and departure




Me and mum sitting on top of Zomba Plateau at Queens View
 Mums dutch directness, comments and general thoughts on anything will always blow me away. I instantly took her to my friend’s slightly better more upmarket house for dinner as I knew she would be a bit shocked to see my room and outdoor facilities.

My room has mum in the doorway
The long list of questions shot and flew around the room considering she had been on a tiresome long haul flight from England. It was all very humorous, she threw comments like:
‘Wow, you have electricity in your home’ which confirmed her inner thoughts about Malawi.
I understood she was on holiday but similarly knew it would be a good change for her to see the communities, hard work, happiness and achievements. We went to the 2 building sites within the Landirani Trust and she observed the work while I made her shake hands with every single person on site. This was the general Malawian greeting and living in Malawi I soon learnt how important it was to say hello to each individual and ask them:
Mulli bwanji? How are you?
Ndilli bwino kuyinu? I am fine how are you?
Ndilli bwino. Zikomo. I am fine, thank you.    It seem’s very repetitive when you start but as time goes on you realise the significant importance. After greetings you then start the day’s work, checking the activities of people, making sure experienced people were teaching younger people and moving some people around to make certain priority jobs faster.
Our first stop was building a rammed earth office in Njewa.

Adobe bag guard house

 Nothing was ever going to be normal that day, many spontaneous things happen all the time in Malawi but these actions were definitely exceptional. The spiritual tribal characters of the gulu wankulus were running up the road. Fully clothed with different rags I thought it best to take a picture as a memory for my mum.
Gulu wankulu's

They saw us taking the photo and immediately surrounded our car and banged on the windows for money. I had never once been in this situation in my whole 2 years living in the chichewa central region where there were large numbers of gulu wankulus. Some say they are: spiritual ancestors that rise from the dead. Others have described them as a tribe that forms in the woods for boys to assemble and celebrate the turning from youth to teenage years.
The literal translation of gulu wankulu means a big dance. Any ceremony in the village will collect these gulu wankulus’ to perform at the wedding, funeral or child to adulthood celebration. People will dance with a mask to hide their identity.
The different jobs on site and mums interest to help pump water into the ladies buckets at the borehole ended in chaos as a typhoon swarmed across the village behind the site.

Everyone collects at the water borehole

Typhoon sweeping the village
 It built up in strength and the thatch from people’s rooves was seen in the air. The ladies at the borehole were shrieking in one tone raising their arms in an act to try and calm the storm. The wind had destroyed 5 houses in this 1 village where all of our workers lived.
After reiterating some main pointers about the adobe earth building we left for the next Landirani project 8km from the Lilongwe Kamuzu International airport. More greetings and new faces came into contact. Mum struggled with the greeting phrase after greeting more than 36 people that day. I faced facts Chichewa was not such an easy language for beginners!
Workshop filled with frames ready for current our current builds
 The holiday then began. We hired a car to allow us to go and investigate Malawi. I had never seen far south so this was my opportunity to take mum to places I had never been. Our first stop was Zomba. I was very impressed with the trails of light coming through the tree plantations on the mountains.

Zomba plateau forest
There was a beautiful landscape. I enjoyed being very active in the mornings and planning things me and mum could do while she was asleep then going out with her and doing them. This worked well as my energy levels would balance when mum rose. We were very lucky to step into the 50th year anniversary of Haile Salaisie having visited Emporers view on the top of Zomba plateau.
Ethiopian visitors at Emporers view
 There was drumming and many rastafarians gathered from all over Malawi for the important day. This was also a great time to visit as we didn’t have to walk so far. We managed to find space in a car both up and down the plateau although we then realised we had missed the Queen of England’s arrival, Queen Elizabeth had arrived at Zomba Plateau in 1957 so they specifically named the spot Queen's view.

Mulunguzi Dam

Our next stop was Liwonde National Park. I had never been in such a peaceful place.

Liwonde National Park
We had to catch a boat to the middle of the island and we were instantly engrossed watching all the wildlife, hippos, crocodiles, impala, baboons, warthogs and hundreds of different exotic birds.  Everything sat in harmony: the wild animals grazing on the bottom level, some raised timber platforms above where we would sit lavishing on delicious food and tea.

Liwonde wildlife





Liwonde wildlife


The timber lodge huts glistened with the reflection of varnish and the elephants joined us one morning. It was unique and what seems now like pure serenity.
Elephant on our veranda, morning alarm clock

Every good time must end and from then on I explained to mum that was a treat and she musn’t compare anything to that up market place! After taking our time to see HELP school in Liwonde we crept into Cape Maclear after dark. I managed to drive into the wrong turning and the people in the village again enclosed around the car. Unlike the gulu wankulus’ it was due to lack of space on the sandy roads. We had to wait for a car to move which took about 10 minutes and I could sense mum was anxious. During these times I must reiterate there was never any problems or reasons for discomfort. It was just the chaos going on in a compacted unknown environment that seemed so dissimilar and diverse from the normal scene on a UK street. This energy among the people gives me a buzz that I want to try and hold on forever. I could tell my mum was somewhat confused with my choices in life.
Apart from the power cut on arrival everything turned smooth sailing. We rested on the famous Lake Malawi for 5 days. We were both hooked on our books and met some lovely people at Gecko lounge. After a trip to Thumbi Island, catching fish, feeding fish eagles, snorkeling and all other activities I could tell mum was more relaxed. 

Fish eagle sweeping the Cape waters


Me


Mum


Slowly we crept out of tourism and into the village behind where I often stayed with my boyfriend, Winston. He got to meet the first family member who had come out to Malawi. I could tell this was a very big event for him as he treated my mum like a queen!  It was great for reality to set and for 2 such important characters of my life to meet.  This was another type of paradise for me as happiness spread through all activities.


Winston
 Our last stop was Ntchitse Forest Lodge. It was slightly out of the way but this biodiversity girl Jess had explained this was one of the most incredible places because of the section of rainforest, the last one here in Malawi. She was right, the vague directions and unsure decisions we had to make while racing the time of sundown was worth it. As we arrived, this time just before dark, the layers of orange and misty mountains prepared me for the thick forests and views the next morning.
Ntchitse Forest
 Again I chased the orange rising of the sun at the crack of dawn and found joy climbing and dropping down the steep screes of the forests. There was a great sensation when I stepped over many unmoved tree trunks that had collapsed and stayed in their natural setting, still, where they had once fallen. Untouched.
The last rainforest in Malawi, Ntchitse
I had lived in the city full of dust but with communities of lively friendly people, but now I realised the potential and just how beautiful Malawi (what we would call) countryside really was.
Walking Ntchitse Forest
Natural Beauty
Forest colours
My highlights have got to be:
Mum’s views having spent 2 weeks in Malawi : saying Malawi people were relaxed, friendly, peaceful, laid back, resourceful and content.
Taking a photo of some guys selling African sausage on sticks, on the side of the main road coming into Lilongwe. I didn’t have any change so I knowingly gave them a larger note, their excitement and smiles made my day. And yes, they are mice.
Mum’s spontaneity going to Ntchitse Forest Lodge last minute as she did not want to stay in my boys quarters room!
Mum bringing over PG tips triangular English tea bags
And ofcourse mum managed to find a classroom with headteacher training. I could tell she was in her comfort zone once again.

M' Bangombe Headteacher training run by a Goverment official
 Thanks mum, it was a great 2 weeks and I hope you can encourage the next Rowsell rabble (as my dad would say) to come and visit.  This is Malawi, if the photos don't make you want to visit I don't know what will. (perhaps the strength of the english pound is a bonus for you all too!)












Sundown at Liwonde National Park


Beautiful baobab tree in view leaving Cape Maclear