Sunday 2 November 2014

Best of both worlds - Town and Village



 Town

I arrived in Lilongwe City Centre most weekends. I went for lunch around my watch guards house, his name was Overtone Banda. He is my brother from another mother! As a volunteer I had spent plenty of time entertaining myself and the watch guards at the Landirani office where I used to live so we had become good friends. I had met most of the family, the kids were flying everywhere in and out of this new house to greet me. The parents had managed to save up to get another house for themselves and the youngest son. The grandmother was also joining us for lunch as she had been in Kamuzu Central hospital to fix her knee. After food Overtone rushed around, it was the process of getting ready for work which left him with no socks. As I cycled back home with him I made sure I did a detour. Later on in the evening I dropped off some tomatoes and socks to the office. This was a thank you for lunch. It was amazing how a simple thought made me feel so good and I could tell Overtone was happy by his face.

 
On a Sunday there were always vibrations of music echoing around Lilongwe. The Malawi tuneful beats made it to most areas. Whether it was weddings, gigs or private barbeques people knew how to enjoy themselves. More often than not it was a gig at the Lilongwe Golf Course, this loud music meant any neighbour in area 3 could have similar music events without complaint. This was Malawi, music, song and dance. Music vibrations sent the people to sleep and gospel choirs is what got the people up in the morning especially on a Sunday.
One morning on a jog the valleys echoed harmonies of different notes, the strength of the sounds set me at a faster pace. This was what I loved about Malawi. I was an early riser and this meant the sun was low yet it was already breathing strength from people’s inner souls.  The choir changed my jog route and instead of saluting the sun thanking someone for my fortunate life I did press ups. I changed direction at my memorable spot then ran back up around to the open area where the valley accentuated all notes from the church across from the old city center.  

Village

 
 
I remembered a few weeks back, I had felt quite down. I had gone for a long jog. This always recollected my thoughts and processed something, a solution, something that was better than sulking or feeling on edge. My workers had complained about the strenuous work and the little pay they got for it. Sometimes it was not easy being a boss: I remember these wise words from my dad. I thought about my situation, being educated in my privileged life and having much more money because of it. Life was not fair, I now agreed, the real world had finally downgraded my idealist thoughts. While everyone complained about getting up at the crack of dawn to farm and being tired before they got to work I wondered what I could do to help. While running I realized I always had energy in the mornings. I remembered getting up in the dark before school to go and look after my horse. That was it. I would get up early and go and farm with the ladies from my construction team.


 
I spoke to the Landirani Trust watch guard, Goswin and he quietly repeated my name outside my window to make sure I was up before dawn. I forgot my stretches that morning.
It was quiet, almost silent apart from some hooves trotting from the main road then yelps and repetitive noises. There was a cloud of mist rising then flitterring away over what must have been the river. The valley struck me, it was a dimmer colour then I was used to, more magical.  The land was half layered and lined with the shadows accentuating the small alleys for crops.  These rows of soil would be hoed to the next line and therefore switched over and freshly turned for the next season of rains and seeds.
That morning I arrived at Maggie’s house, she was one of my construction workers whom I joked with about coming to farm. She greeted me, laughing and calling me sister which proved she was happy to see me: I was not sure whether they had expected me. Soon  a group of ladies had gathered and came over with greetings and smiles. After the initial conversations the ladies explained there was a funeral in a nearby village.


I know I say there's peace and tranquility of which there is most of the time but people are people. People drink... and in the villages there is this local moonshine substance which is very strong called kachasu. Apparently it can disseminate and poison people's insides. After many drinks people have this glazing twinkle overlapping their eyes. The strength turns some quiet and others crazy and rowdy. Some turn blind. I can't count the number of shouting arguements I've seen. These 2 guys were very drunk and had got in a fight where 1 died. 
 
The ladies explained they would go to the village to give their condolences before work. I wished them well and luckily got to spend my time walking amoung the quiet beautiful setting. The sun was just rising, the orange fire was whole and striped the land with more beauty. The sunsetting in the evening and rising in the morning created such dramatic landscapes compared to any other time of day. 

 

Quiet moments like this made me think about my family.  My home could never be so striking, perhaps in Virginia Water Lake on the rare fine summers day! The mornings and evenings were very calm compared to the work in the daytime. I would often jog my steps so I could get more things done in one day! Once work was over I threw a bucket of water over my head and relaxed. The sunset and then the pitch black night was what made the peaceful village. The light cloud above Lilongwe town was very far, too far for any pollution. Our security lights were the only bright lights that made our earth houses look like mansions. The glow reflected off the bushes while the insects bleeped and wavered with the wind. I often sat out on our veranda and watched the stars.
 
The week in the village always went very quickly and suddenly it was Friday once again. The Landirani car took me back to town. To the internet for the wider world, to the shower! I always started with a good wash. As I walked back to the office with my laptop the primary school head teacher from Bishopp Mackenzie International School spotted me. She said hello and gave me a package of strawberries. I made it to the office without dropping one then and was greeted by Overtone who gave me a papaya. The neighbours had dropped some papayas off in the morning. It was the start of a great time of year, strawberries, papaya and mango season.











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